I drive by and sigh with longing, as if passing a mausoleum, which it is, in a way—
the rectangular white building once home to booths and a lively counter tended by teenaged servers, ice cream scoops at the ready.
Now it’s silent, abandoned, the man whose last name it bore long gone, its parking lot filled with cars of shoppers at Trader Joe’s next door.
So many of my dead loved ones are entombed here—my beloved’s mother who loved the fresh turkey Jim Burr roasted daily for sandwiches, chunky bits piled high on sourdough, adorned with a frill of lettuce, mayo, jellied cranberry sauce if you wanted it, dill pickles on the side.
My best friend who’d snare the corner booth if she arrived first would order my favorite Jik Jak frost, a shake-like concoction delivered in a tall fluted glass designed for sundaes, a scoop of the chocolate malt-laced ice cream drooping down the side.
So many older neighbors arrived sometimes daily for lunch and fellowship with others they’d known in town for decades. All gone now.
A couple of enterprises attempted a comeback there, but none went far. It’s an old building. It must need a complete redo.
I walked by yesterday on my way to buy groceries and stopped to peer in a spot of window to take in the cavernous emptiness, the counter, the booths vanished to that place where ice cream parlors of yore must go,
where I hope to land when I leave my body behind, walking in to take a seat on a swivel-y stool at the counter, Jim himself turning from his post at the sandwich station, nodding and asking, as if he didn’t know, “Jik Jak frost?”
And me giving the only possible response: “Yes, please.”
Jan and a Jik Jak frost at Burr’s Fountain, February 2017 / Photos: Dick Schmidt
The little patch of earth I steward today opened its mouth to gratefully receive what might well be the last precipitation of the season,
living, as I do, in the land of little rain, which makes me thankful, too, for what humans do to collect it and protect it,
makes me think of the finally free-flowing Klamath River far north of my home turf, wrangled into submission
by the water-hungry occupiers more than a century ago, dammed in more ways than one, at last set free, now recovering
as its indigenous defenders have wanted for a hundred years, salmon swimming ever farther upstream to spawn,
the baby salmon now starting their journey to the ocean in water that those who know it best once called putrid.
Now, they’ll tell you, the river, at long last, smells sweet.
•••
I’m grateful to have heard this story featuring Amy Bowers Cordalis of the Yurok Tribe and the author of “The Water Remembers” describing the recovery of the Klamath River since the last of its four dams was removed in October 2024.
I plant a single tomato plant in your memory, a slender sprig about a foot tall that will, if she follows the directions on her little stake, produce small, torpedo-shaped orbs perfect for plucking and popping in the mouth.
Her name, according to her little plastic license plate, is Juliet.
This is another act of faith, which I am inspired to propagate because of the massive number of annual and perennials I have tucked into soil this spring, nudged by my garden godmother friend.
You annually stuck springs of tomatoes-to-be by the back fence, the sunniest place in the yard. But since the sycamore tree has been trimmed several times since your departure, more sun falls on the little bed by the garage.
And since that is the spot where a mural of brightly growing greenery now lives, I hope it might inspire the little plants looking up at it.
Following the advice of the nursery plant counselor, I trundle home a wire cage not unlike a hoop skirt to cradle the seedling. Loosening its roots, nestling it in place, transports me to long-ago summers here when wooden half-tubs that formerly aged wine sprouted cages and tomatoes— a solution after our poaching dog developed a fondness for the fire-engine red fruit.
That was another thing I learned from you: Tomatoes are botanically fruit, though we think of them as vegetable, because, of course, we can be more than one thing at a time—like Juliet, flesh and spirit growing out of the good earth, lingering in the air.