Jesse, the surfer from Texas, taking a selfie. (Photo / Jan Haag
He’s standing solo on the beach, holding his board vertically, its fin buried in the sand, trying to take a selfie,
and on my morning walk, even from a distance, I can see him struggling to get it all in the frame.
There’s no one around to admire his effort or take the photo, so I walk over and offer. And the smile that thanks me beams broad and bright.
“Really? Thank you,” says, it turns out, Jesse, the surfer from Texas.
After I snap a good number of photos on his phone, we stand and survey the baby waves that don’t amount to much for someone who’s come so far hoping to surf them.
But, I point out, he’ll have them to himself. No local guys hogging the lineup.
“You can tell people that you surfed in Southern California,” I say. “And being on your board in the ocean on a lovely day is never a bad thing, right?”
Jesse grins, hefts his board under an armpit and heads for the blue.
And later, when I return on my walk, I see him not far offshore, tummy down on his board, waiting, in the tradition of those hoping to catch a wave.
He sits and throws an arm up in the air, a wave of recognition, if not a surfable one.
And, offering a prayer to the gods for one clean crest that Jesse might ride into shore, I do the only thing I can—
I send him a wave back.
Jan photographs Jesse, the surfer from Texas, on the T Street Beach in San Clemente, California. (Photo / Dick Schmidt)
He is that friend who presents a book we’ve never seen wrapped in soft tissue like a gift from the divine,
which it is, in a way, coming from the long-gone pen of Langston Hughes, jazz poet of 1920s Harlem:
“We build our temples for tomorrow, strong as we know how, and we stand on top of the mountain free within ourselves.”
In the book Hughes spools out a story to accompany Roy DeCarava’s photos of African Americans in 1950s Harlem:
“But almost everywhere there is something to set on or lean on,” someone is setting or leaning. In what few parks there is,
some just set on a park bench… and hold their hands.” And there on the page are a pair of dark clasped hands
contrasting with those hands’ white nail beds, the kind of photo our friend might make,
whether the hands belong to the famous, the wealthy, the common man, the dying. And we read the small book,
touched by the fiction of the real people in the photos, whose protagonist, Miss Mary, says, “I done got my feet
caught in the flypaper of life—and I’ll be dogged if I want to get loose.” And that, too, is our friend,
snagged by the sticky flypaper of life and loving every bit—even the heart-tugging sorrows of it—
this poet photographer content to set on a park bench and lean in to a stranger whose hands jitterbug
their way through a story, our friend the listener nodding and smiling, uttering the kindest prayer:
“Tell me more.”
•••
For Genaro Molina, with our thanks for the present of your presence, as well as the book, “The Sweet Flypaper of Life” by Langston Hughes and Roy DeCarava.
Photographers Dick Schmidt (formerly of The Sacramento Bee) and Genaro Molina (formerly of The Bee and still of the Los Angeles Times) at the Chart House, Dana Point, California. (Photo / Jan Haag)
There is in Celtic mythology the notion of “thin places” in the universe where the visible and the invisible world come into their closest proximity. … —Rev. Peter Gomes
Perhaps this is why my feet need to meet ocean, sink into ankle-deep sand, as the water eddies around my knees,
why I stand with arms up, hands blocking the insistent sun from my shaded eyes, because I do not need to see this to feel it—
the thin places where temporal meets eternal, this horizontal sea plane that extends to forever, way out there, past sky and rule-straight horizon.
I do not want to leave; I could stand here beyond time, calmed by swoosh of gentle surf turning over on itself, by the company of gulls
hunkered down nearby, along with a cluster of sanderlings moving in concert like an avian corps de ballet, chasing receding waves,
pecking wet sand for tiny sand crabs and crustaceans, then sprinting back up the sand, pursued by incoming froth.
Each spring the small birds migrate to their Arctic breeding grounds, returning by fall to these wide, soft, golden sands.
There is no greater prayer than this— standing in the notch between this side and that— in communion with the here and gone,
with eternity, this ocean, this sky, where all is calm, where all is truly bright.
Feet in the ocean, San Clemente Pier, California / Photo: Dick Schmidt
You could probably still get into yours, though I am far, far from the hundred-pound
lifeguard chick twirling her Acme Thunderer, ready to blow it if kids running on the deck
failed to heed my call of “slow down!” with all the force of my 16 years behind it.
But you, dear sister, also rocked the red bikini, our preferred poolwear for guarding,
saving the one-piece Speedo for mornings when we taught little kids how to float
face up and face down, to pull and kick and glide, preferring to be a bit more
covered as gasping faces and grasping hands reached for whatever part of us they could.
I still love the image that ran on the front page of our local paper—a classic weather
picture, as the photographers called them— you, floating face up in the pool
in shades and red bikini, ankles anchored to the tile gutter, hands behind your head,
beyond cool. A babe, for sure, unruffled and calm, as you’ve been all these years,
a steadying force in my life and those of the ones you made into family.
You, my unwavering anchor, my mooring to all that was and is, the womb-mate who later
occupied the same space in the one who made us, rocking in that ocean
of the ever and the after.
•••
For the best sister ever, Donna Gail Haag Just, on her 66th birthday. I so wouldn’t be me without her, and I wouldn’t want to be. Thank you, DG, for all you do for me, for the fam, for Mom and Dad, who are certainly, always, cheering us on from the heavenly bleachers.
Donna (in blue) and Janis (in red) Haag, 1966 Christmas card, Granite Bay Vista, Califorrnia / Photo: Darlene Haag