Frankly, it makes it hard to concentrate on the task at hand, so to speak, sitting on the throne, looking into a mirror on the inside of a pink Frigidaire roughly the same age as me.
But I love it.
Somehow I failed to appreciate pink as a girl, though I slept in a pale pink bedroom and rode a rosy two-wheeler.
The budding feminist in me came to shun the stereotypical pink, much as I stopped writing poems once I got serious about journalism.
(Who ever heard of a Real Journalist who liked pink?)
But every time I hit the ladies’ room at Tiki Iniki on Kauai, there it is: the doorless Frigidaire, rusty in places and losing its once vibrant color.
I am fascinated by its chrome detailing and wonder if it always had a mirror in it, and whose kitchen it lived in, and who decided it would make a whimsical decoration in the bathroom of a tiki bar?
(Wait a minute: Clark Kent, mild-mannered reporter and man of steel, liked pink and in the movie told Lois Lane that he did, making her blush.)
The journalist in me has a lot of questions, but the poet, thinking of her 1950s pink Royal typewriter at home, looks in the old splotched mirror and sees her own rosy T-shirt,
and, before leaving the loo, pats the old gal on her dented side and tells her her how beautiful she is, a treasure of her era, in her glorious pink dotage.
Flippering into the sea, bounced around by waves more than I like, always a beginner every time
I hit salt water, fogging the mask, trying to clear the snorkel, liquid reminders that I am a
visitor in this world. When I finally feel my shoulders relax and fin gently, no matter
how strong the surf, my breathing evens out, and the convict tang darting below me
seem to linger a bit, the shy humuhumu not zipping away as fast. And when a great
domed shadow appears, flying slowly through her realm, I hang suspended, think,
aloha, honu, grateful for a visitation from this long-lived sea goddess. Then
I don’t mind the surf nudging my floating tourist self landward, where I will stumble
as I find my footing, sink into soft sand as the tide pulls out and I wobble,
subject to gravity and air, merely human again.
•••
convict tang: a tropical surgeonfish with a creamy/silver body and black vertical stripes
humuhumunuknukuapua’a: Hawaiian triggerfish, the state fish, with a blue upper lip and a black chevron down its sides; name checked in the song, “My Little Grass Shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii.”
(In memory of Ed Kato, artist of Kalaupapa, on this day of thanksgiving)
There, on a peninsula of great suffering, nearly a hundred years after thousands
were banished to die, an artist picked up his paintbrush again and again
to record in oils what he saw around him, on canvas, on the Welcome to Kalaupapa
sign and dozens of others—not least on rocks he left around the settlement.
Smile—it no broke your face, reads one next to a grinning countenance.
At the grave of the nun who later became a saint: Peace to all who enter here.
And the simplest of all, from a man branded a leper, who thrived and loved,
who lived and died with a grateful heart: Mahalo.
Photo courtesy of Valerie Monson, Ka Ohana O Kalaupapa
•••
Dick and I have been fortunate to make several trips over the years as volunteers through the Sierra Club to the Kalaupapa peninsula on Moloka’i. Dick first hiked down to Kalaupapa on a Sierra Club outing in 1970, not long after the site was opened for tours to a limited number of visitors. We continue to be moved by the stories of the more than 8,000 people forced to live and die there in isolation because they were afflicted with Hansen’s Disease, commonly known as leprosy.
The first patients were sent there in 1866. With new drug therapies developed in the 1940s, there was no need for further isolation, but it wasn’t until 1969 that the century-old laws of forced quarantine were abolished.
Many former patients continued to live the rest of their lives at Kalaupapa, though, one of the most beautiful places in Hawaii, honoring the legacy of their kupuna (ancestors) and many who served there, including Father Damien De Veuster and Mother Marianne Cope, who have been venerated as saints in the Catholic church.
Today Kalaupapa is a National Historic Park, but visitors are allowed only on a limited basis. No tours are currently available as they have been in the past.
However, Ka ‘Ohana O Kalaupapa is a nonprofit group that promotes the value and dignity of every individual who was taken from their family and forcibly isolated on the peninsula known as Kalaupapa on Moloka’i, Hawaii, due to government policies regarding leprosy (now also called Hansen’s disease).
Ka ‘Ohana has produced an array of educational materials and exhibits, helped more than 900 descendants learn more about their Kalaupapa ancestors, created a virtual concert, “The Music of Kalaupapa,” and worked with the state Legislature to designate January annually as Kalaupapa Month.
Their biggest project is The Kalaupapa Memorial, which will display the names of everyone who was admitted to Kalaupapa. Ka ‘Ohana deeply appreciates those who would like to support their efforts to honor the people of Kalaupapa and to perpetuate their lives and legacies. You can learn more about the group and, if you’re so moved, make a donation to Ka ‘Ohana O Kalaupapa here.